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Frogs, toads and newts have suffered badly in recent decades. The loss of hundreds of thousands of garden ponds, the drainage of field ponds and the tidying up of the countryside have left amphibians with far fewer places to breed. That is why a well-built garden pond is not just a pretty feature – it is a genuine refuge. A single healthy pond can support common frogs, smooth newts and, if you are lucky, palmate newts. Get the design right and you will be rewarded with frogspawn in February, newt courtship displays in spring, and a garden that hums with life all summer.
Amphibians are creatures of the margins, so position your pond where it will get a good mix of sun and shade. A pond that is in full sun all day will overheat and grow thick with algae; one in deep shade will be cold and sluggish. Aim for roughly half the surface in sunlight at midday. Avoid siting the pond directly under a large deciduous tree, as falling leaves will rot and starve the water of oxygen.
Think about access, too. Frogs and newts will find your pond from nearby gardens, hedgerows or rough grass, so leave a wild corridor – a strip of long grass, a log pile or a loose hedge – leading towards the water. Never site a pond where it can be reached by run-off from a road or a patio, as this can carry in pollutants.
Size matters less than shape. Even a pond of two metres by three metres will do the job, provided the edges are shallow and the water is clean. If you have children or grandchildren, it goes without saying that a pond must be safely fenced, but do allow one side of the fence to have a gap at ground level so wildlife can still get through.
The single most important design feature for amphibians is a gentle slope. Frogs and newts need to be able to walk in and out of the water, and a vertical rubber liner is a death trap. Create at least one shallow shelf that slopes gradually from the surrounding soil down to a depth of around 10cm, then another that drops to 40–60cm. A deeper section of 60–80cm will keep the pond from freezing solid in a hard winter and give amphibians somewhere to retreat.
Line the pond with a butyl or flexible liner, underlaid with old carpet or sand to protect it from stones. Leave an overlapping lip around the perimeter and bury it under turf or gravel so it looks natural. Then add a layer of subsoil or pond-safe loam to the bottom – never use ordinary garden compost, which is too rich and will turn the water green.
If you can, install a small overflow pipe or a shallow gravel spillway at one end. Heavy rain will then top up the pond without washing away the spawn or flooding the lawn.
Native pond plants are essential. They provide cover for tadpoles, egg-laying sites for newts and perches for dragonflies, and they help keep the water clear by competing with algae. Stick to British natives and avoid the invasive non-natives that can escape into the wild.
Plant in late spring or early summer, when the water has warmed. Use baskets for the more vigorous growers, but leave hornwort free-floating.
Amphibians are shy and need places to hide, both in the water and on land. In the pond itself, add a few broken clay pots, some smooth stones and a bundle of old twigs. On the surrounding ground, build a log pile, leave a patch of long grass and scatter a few flat stones where frogs can bask in the early morning sun.
Newts in particular like to shelter under stones and logs during the day, emerging at dusk to feed. A small hibernaculum – a mound of logs, stones and dead leaves – placed near the pond will give them somewhere to spend the winter. Avoid clearing this area in autumn, as you may disturb animals that are already settling down.
Do not introduce fish. Even a few goldfish will eat tadpoles and newt larvae, and they quickly turn a wildlife pond into a sterile one.
A wildlife pond needs very little maintenance, but a few seasonal jobs will keep it healthy. In spring, remove any blanket weed by hand and leave it on the side of the pond for a day so that any trapped creatures can crawl back in. In summer, top up the water with rainwater from a water butt – tap water contains nutrients that encourage algae.
In autumn, skim off fallen leaves before they sink, but do not be too tidy. A few leaves in the bottom provide food for invertebrates. If the pond is small and frost is forecast, float a ball or a piece of wood on the surface to help gases escape. In winter, avoid breaking the ice with a hammer, as the shock can harm amphibians resting below.
Above all, be patient. A new pond may take a season or two to be discovered. But once frogs and newts find it, they will return year after year – and you will have created one of the most rewarding wildlife features any British garden can hold.
Opal Glade shares practical, down-to-earth guidance on woodland gardening and british wildlife for readers across the UK.
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